Vecchia Roma
398 Watertown Street, Newton, MA 02458
(617) 965-0026
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One of the pleasures of writing reviews for this site is the occasional discovery of a "perfect" hidden gem--one that not only is completely unknown to the general public, but also ranks among the best in its class for food. And so it goes with Vecchia Roma, a charming little Italian dining spot in the Nonantum section of Newton that we believe rivals many of the restaurants in the North End of Boston.
Vecchia Roma is easy to miss, as it is one of many storefronts along Watertown Street in Nonantum, a heavily Italian section of Newton that is also known as "The Lake" to locals. The restaurant consists of two rooms: The left room (where diners enter) is dark and rather romantic, with exposed brick and low lights adding much in the way of atmosphere; the right room is a bit brighter and has the feel of an Italian cottage, with pictures and lamps on the pastel-colored walls, an attractive tile floor, and a large curtain stretched along the front window.
The owner and executive chef of Vecchia Roma, who hails from the Abruzzi region of Italy, used to be the head chef at two top restaurants in the North End and went to culinary school in Rome, so the food served at this restaurant is the real deal. The eggplant melanzane appetizer, for instance, is simply extraordinary here, with a sweet, creamy ricotta filling that contrasts perfectly with the smoky mozzarella cheese and the smooth texture of the eggplant. The salads are also excellent, with a delightful caesar salad leading the way, as well as a delicious salad option that includes pieces of cod mixed with roasted red peppers and greens in a mild lemon sauce.
Entrees at Vecchia Roma include a gnocchi dish with tender pasta pillows in an excellent red sauce; an outstanding lasagna made with that same sweet ricotta cheese; a deliciously sticky and creamy risotto with chicken and mushrooms in a marsala wine sauce; an impressive veal saltimbocca in a garlic white wine sauce; a homemade ravioli dish with porcini mushrooms, asparagus, and sage in a white wine sauce; and a wonderful roast pork stuffed with sausage, asiago cheese, and artichokes in a rich and hearty brown sauce. And for diners who have room, the desserts at Vecchia Roma are brought in from Italy and include a positively sinful chocolate fondant (lava cake), a similarly rich bomba (which includes chocolate and vanilla ice cream), and a very nice profiterole (cream puff). Finally, for those who like wine, Vecchia Roma has an extensive list that includes some good reds and whites from Italy.
It is not an exaggeration to say that Vecchia Roma may be one of the best Italian restaurants in the Boston area that nobody has ever heard about; in some ways, it is the ultimate hidden gem, with outstanding food, little in the way of crowds, terrific prices for the type of food offered, and easy street parking out front. If you like Italian food (and who doesn't?), try not to miss this one.
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