88 Wharf
88 Wharf Street, Milton, MA 02186
(857) 598-4826
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There are some restaurants that we feature mainly for their food, others that we feature mainly for their atmosphere, and still others that we feature mainly for their location. And then there are those that are pretty strong in all three departments. Take 88 Wharf, for instance; this upscale restaurant in Milton Village serves dependable New American fare in an elegant, attractive space, and also happens to be in a beautiful location along a river, which is a definite rarity among Boston-area restaurants. And while we feel that there are better options for creative American cuisine in and around Boston (The Blue Ox in Lynn immediately comes to mind), few can beat that satisfying sense of discovery that comes with a place truly off the beaten path such as 88 Wharf.
Situated on the ground floor of a condominium development in Milton Landing, 88 Wharf is easy to miss, since the development is located on what basically amounts to a dead-end road that drops sharply from the main drag in Milton Village. And even from the parking lots around the building itself, it is still difficult to see that a restaurant actually exists in this space, since the signage for 88 Wharf does not stand out all that much. But the restaurant actually resides in a fairly spacious spot, with a sleek (and sometimes noisy) bar to the left, a relatively serene and cozy dining room with candlelit tables and lots of dark woods to the right, and a good-sized outdoor patio overlooking the river to the right of the dining room.
While 88 Wharf leans toward New American fare, the menu is quite varied, with a raw bar (including cherrystones and shrimp cocktail), salads (the Caesar is tasty and fresh, while the endive salad with pomegranates and candied walnuts is outstanding), appetizers (crabcakes, lobster macaroni and cheese, pulled pork sliders), bar bites (rosemary bar nuts, truffle chips, grilled naan), and gourmet pizza (including a duck confit pie with dried cranberries). The main entrees are mostly what you might find at a gastropub, with such dishes as braised lamb shank and double-cut pork chops for meat eaters, seared scallops and Scottish salmon for seafood lovers, and a braciolatini and gnocchi with bolognese sauce for those who might be looking for a pasta dish. Pasta fans may also want to look at the butternut squash ravioli, which has a sweetness that comes not only from the squash, but also from pomegranates that are added to the dish along with sage (which imparts just a hint of bitterness) and brown butter. One other entree that is worth considering is the hanger steak frites, which gets an extra boost in richness from a red wine sauce, while the seasoned handcut fries are browned perfectly. Desserts include a truly sinful brioche bread pudding covered in caramel sauce and chunks of chocolate (and topped with ice cream), a New York style cheesecake, and a creme brulee. The beer list at 88 Wharf is a bit limited, but lovers of martinis and other cocktails will probably be happy with the options offered here.
88 Wharf is a good, solid dining spot made a bit more special by its truly unforgettable location along a river that is in of itself a bit of a hidden gem. If food is your sole priority, this restaurant near the Milton/Dorchester line may not quite achieve the greatness of other New American bistros around Boston, but for an overall package of food, atmosphere, and location, 88 Wharf is pretty tough to beat.
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